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A Taste of Lugana – Wine Review

Jan 7, 2020 · 9 Comments

This post has been brought to you by Ancilla Winery. All opinions expressed are my own. The following message is intended for those 21+. Please enjoy responsibly.

Today we’re breaking last year’s long streak of ‘New World’ of wine reviews with a bottle from one of the oldest and most prestigious wine producing regions in the world, and one whose climate is arguably the single most ideal for producing wine – Italy.

The Where – Lugana, Italy

An idyllic landscape checkered by fishing villages and castled towns, the Lugana DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), is located just west of Verona at the southern end of Lake Garda, forming part of the larger Veneto wine region in the far Northeastern corner Italy. Though known globally for its fruit-forward white wines, Lugana also produces critically acclaimed light reds, such as Sangiovese, Barbera, and Marzemino.

The Bottle – A Showcase

Today we’ll sampling a 2017 Lugana courtesy of the Ancilla Winery, produced from Turbiana grapes.

A Tale of Two Grapes, or Is It?

For those unfamiliar, Turbiana grapes are ‘fresh’ and ‘zesty’ tasting, and hold onto their acidity amazingly well. This gives it the odd quality of allowing it to feature as a decent quality ‘quick’ wine, meaning it can be consumed without aging, while also allowing it to sit on the shelf and ‘mature’ for years.

For most of their existence, Turbiana grapes were thought to be a close variant of Trebbiano grapes, and were marketed and treated as such. However, it wasn’t until the turn of the century that far more ‘discerning’ eyes noticed their striking resemblance in appearance, taste, and aromatics to something ‘other’ than Trebbiano grapes. Yet, to suggest any similarity between Turbiana and this ‘other’ white wine varietal was simply heresy, so much so in fact that a forensic test was ordered in 2008 to once and for all separate Veneto’s prized Turbiana grape from this non-Venetian interloper. With baited breath the local wine authorities, or corsorzio, awaited the results, and were aghast when they learned that Turbiana was, in fact, not only ‘similar’ to this ‘other’ white wine grape, but was in fact…alas…identical to, of all grapes, Verdicchio, one of the most widely grown white wine grapes in – gasp! – Marche, located on the Adriatic coast in central Italy, well outside the boundaries of Northern Italy’s Veneto.

To this day, the local corsorzio in both regions insist that the two grapes are in fact distinct, and they have outlined, in painstaking detail, the phenological, agronomical and oenological properties that supposedly differentiate these genetically identical grapes. Then again, perhaps it is such attention to detail that differentiate the corsorzio from mere laymen?

Luisella Benedetti, granddaughter of Ancilla.

Aromatics and Tasting – The Review

With the DOC feuding out of the way, we have wine to taste.

The Lugana 2017, which comes to us from the Ancilla Winery, opens with an instantly citrusy bouquet, framed in notes of lemon grass, honeysuckle, and crisp sliced apple. On the palate the wine is quite refreshing, light bodied, and possesses a fair amount of crisp acidity. The apple from the bouquet carries over quite pleasantly, along vague hints of honeydew melon, and perhaps just a touch of citrus somewhere in the background. The finish is quite zesty, leaving the palate feeling clean and renewed.

All of this creates a very pleasant experience overall.

What to Eat – The Pairing

1) Antipasto. This is probably the most common pairing by those who live in the area where the wine is grown. Turbiana wine served alongside varied antipasto boards is a hallmark of Lugana, particularly in the Verona area. You might consider things like a marinated cheeseboard paired with stuffed olives, toasted nuts, and light seafood marinated in olive oil, fresh lemon juice, and dried herbs. You might also consider a more ‘substantial’ antipasto board, with individual pizzas prepared with basil, fresh mozzarella, and a fresh red sauce, alongside spicy marinated peppers, olives, and assorted cheese and charcuterie. In other words, think Mediterranean-themed starters.

2) Seafood. Once again, in Lugana it’s common to see this wine paired with locally sourced trout caught fresh from Lake Garda. However, you want to stay away from overly ‘fatty,’ ‘substantial,’ or ‘oily’ bodied fishes, such as salmon or shark, or from heavily prepared seafood such as lobster bathed in butter or cream-sauced clams, since today’s wine is still very much on the lighter end of the spectrum, and as such it would easily risk being overpowered. Instead, think white bodied, flakier, lighter bodied fish, preferably prepared with either an herbed butter sauce, oil and herbs, or a light marinade.

Have you Tried it? Have you tried today’s wine? If so, we would love to hear from you! Give us a shout out on Instagram or Facebook with a picture of what you prepared, or let us know down below in the comments how it turned out! We can’t wait to hear from you!

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Wine Reviews

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Chad says

    08/01/2020 at 10:48 pm

    I love Italian wine and have it all the time! I never tried any wine from Lugana, it seems so delicious. Thanks for the review.
    Reply
  2. Heather says

    09/01/2020 at 2:57 am

    I don't know much about wine but I know my sister-in-law would really love this one!
    Reply
  3. Cristina Petrini says

    09/01/2020 at 8:42 am

    The goodness of a wine is not only hidden behind its aromatic and fragrant notes, but also the history of the estate in which it is made. Thanks for letting me know.
    Reply
  4. Ashley R says

    09/01/2020 at 6:56 pm

    We love wine. I wish it wasn't so expensive to ship. If only it was ok to store in plastic. Would weigh a lot less.
    Reply
  5. Mudpie Fridays says

    09/01/2020 at 9:53 pm

    We have been lucky enough to visit Italy a fair amount and have tried some fantastic wines during our visits. This sounds very much like one we will be seeking out.
    Reply
  6. Yeah Lifestyle says

    09/01/2020 at 9:58 pm

    I have been to Lugana in Italy before but not tasted this wine yet, so would like to try it to rekindly my memory of my visit there
    Reply
  7. Ave says

    09/01/2020 at 10:23 pm

    I don't know much about wines but I do love to enjoy them once in a while. The design of the bottle and the label are so simple yet elegant. Have to give this wine a try and pair it with delicious antipasto for sure.
    Reply
  8. Eileen M Loya says

    09/01/2020 at 11:30 pm

    I dream of going on a wine tour in Italy. This must have been such a wonderful experience for you. My cousin visits Italy often and I will let her know about this, or maybe she's been there already. Lugana wine looks really good.
    Reply
  9. Agnes Vazhure says

    14/01/2020 at 5:34 am

    That sounds like a delicious wine to try. I will definitely check that out and try with my husband.
    Reply

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