Christmas Wine Menu featuring San Felice

^{This post has been sponsored by San Felice. The following message is intended for those 21+. All opinions expressed are my own. Please enjoy responsibly.}

Today we’re sampling a quartet of wines from Tuscany, Italy. We’ll be taking a brief tour of Tuscany as a wine region before delving into each bottle. I’ll be reviewing each of four wines, and then we’ll take a look at pairings and servings suggestions to ensure you get the most out of each bottle.

Now, since we’ve got a lot to cover, let’s get to it.

The Where – Tuscany, Italy

In viniculture, ‘The Three Great Terroirs’ consist of – in order of prestige, value, and production – France, Italy, and Spain. Today’s bottle comes to us from Tuscany, which is arguably one of the most iconic regions of Italian winemaking – which in turn makes it “One of the most iconic regions in ‘all’ of winemaking.”

To start, Tuscany is divided across a whopping forty-one DOCs and 11 DOCGs, which are regional classification systems regulating how and where wines are made. Aside from production methods and geography, this classification system also sets rigid quality standards, including but not limited to standardized taste testing.

However, despite this vast area of literally dozens of specified production areas and methods into which Tuscany is divided, the bedrock of Tuscan winemaking is a single varietal – Sangiovese. Sangiovese so dominates the region that it is almost impossible to talk about Tuscan wine making without giving mention to the grape that produces the dry red wines for which Tuscany is famous. Prized for its high acid, ‘pleasantly firm’ tannins and balance, a quality wine based on Sangiovese will evoke images of ripe dark cherries and black stone fruit, perforated with stark herbal notes. Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Brunello di Montalcino, are just a few of the world-renowned wines produced from Sangiovese.

However, Sangiovese is assuredly ‘not’ the beginning and end of the story of Tuscan winemaking. For example, the 1970s saw the rise of ‘Super Tuscans,’ an unofficial term used to describe several high-quality Tuscan wines that were – for one reason or another – excluded from receiving DOC or DOCG status by breaking traditional Italian winemaking norms. Regardless of local labeling, a number of these wines achieved critical acclaim, as well as commercial success, and ended up becoming ‘cult wines’ that commanded high prices. Over the ensuing decades some of these ‘Super Tuscans’ were granted DOC or DOCG status – although it can be argued that such status detracted from their ‘cult’ mystique as ‘rogue labels.’ Aside from the controversial ‘Super Tuscans,’ other wines have also seen success across Tuscany, such as Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Tight regulations and quality standards aside, climate is perhaps the foremost factor in Tuscany’s success. The region’s warm and temperate coastline is flanked by inland hillsides and mountains, which help temper the region’s searing summers, which in turn contributes to increased temperature variation. This temperature variation between the hills, mountains, and warm coastline help balance the sugars and acidity of the region’s grapes. Sangiovese performs best when it receives maximum direct sunlight, and as such the hilly terrain of the region is almost tailor-made for this grape, with the majority of area’s vineyards being planted at elevations of between some five-hundred and sixteen-hundred feet. This higher elevation further increases temperature variance, which further increases the balance in sugar and acidity.

The Bottles – A Showcase

Today we’re taking a look at four bottles:

• Up first, we’ll be tasting a 2020 Bell’Aja Bolgheri.
• Next, we’ll be sampling a 2020 Vigorello San Felice.
• Then we’ll be reviewing a 2019 Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino.

Tasting and Aromatics – The Review

The 2020 Bolgheri opens up with rich aromas of wild flowers and forest floor. This creates a bouquet that is both floral and pleasantly earthy off the top of the glass. This bouquet matures with notes of violet, tobacco leaf, and just a touch of what I’ll describe as either dark cocoa or coffee. Lush vanilla is laced throughout. Ripe red and dark fruit notes are present towards the middle of the glass, complementing rather than overtaking their floral counterparts. These red and dark fruit notes are accompanied by oak essences, antique cedar, and perhaps just a touch of cigar box. Though that last descriptor could be the result of my lingering too much on the bouquet. On sampling, the wine is entirely full-bodied, and powerfully tannic. The wine features sliced red berries and blackberries, ripe red cherries, and mixed dark fruit. This was a very enjoyable wine from start to finish.

The 2020 Vigorello introduces itself with a mix of blackberries, dark cherries, and juicy currants. Maturing notes of oak, tilled soil, and vanilla help to create a nicely layered and complex bouquet. Deeper into the glass, elements of mixed herbs, cocoa, and coffee grinds make themselves known, alongside blackberries and mixed red and dark fruit. On the palate, the berries and dark fruit from the aromatics carry over quite nicely. The fruit notes are pleasantly accentuated by the herbs and cocoa from the bouquet, creating a luxurious sipping experience. The wine is thoroughly medium bodied, features fine tannins, while ending on a very pleasant finish. A delightful bottle.

The Campogiovanni is a medium-to-full bodied wine, that introduces itself with notes of ripe red fruit notes, punctuated by bright acidity. Deeper into the glass, aromas of oak and fresh tobacco leaf manifest. On second sampling, ripe blackberries and juicy plums come through in the bouquet, with hints of leather and earthy essences. On the palate, the red fruit carries over quite nicely, carried on a pleasant acidity. The finish is lasting, and very enjoyable.

What to Eat – The Pairings

The 2020 Bolgheri Superiore: When served slightly below room temperature, this wine is a breeze to pair. Here are my top five suggestions.

• Grilled or Roasted Meats: Bolgheri Superiore, with its bold flavors and copious tannins, complements grilled or roasted meats exceptionally well. Consider pairing with seared steak, braised lamb chops, or game meats.
• Hard Cheeses: Those same qualities also make this wine a great match for aged and hard cheeses such as Pecorino, Parmesan, or aged cheddar, which are all delightful accompaniments to a charcuterie or antipasto board.
• Pasta with Rich Sauces: Opt for pasta dishes with hearty and rich sauces, such as a ragù or a Bolognese. The wine's structure will easily stand up to a spicy marinara tossed with pasta, sausage, and meatballs.
• Charcuterie: This wine adores a charcuterie board with cured meats like prosciutto, salami, and chorizo. The wine's innate boldness, oak, and dark fruit notes would beautifully complement the savory and salty notes of the meats.
• Dark Chocolate: For dessert, consider pairing Bolgheri Superiore with high-quality dark chocolate confections.

With 2020 Vigorello cured meats, sharp cheeses, and dried fruit are idea for this wine, where the smoky and herbal notes of the wine would meld deliciously with the rustic qualities of a good charcuterie board. For the best pairing, see my charcuterie tutorial. Beyond that, here are my top four pairing categories for this wine:

• Classic Italian Dishes: This wine would be an excellent match for classic Italian dishes, such as pasta with tomato-based sauces, lasagna, or traditional Tuscan cuisine.
• Grilled Meats: The Cabernet Sauvignon makes this wine an ideal pairing for grilled meats. Try it with a well-seasoned steak, grilled lamb chops, or sausages tossed with red sauce.
• Aged Cheeses: Consider pairing Vigorello with aged cheeses, such as Pecorino or Parmesan. The richness of the wine can balance the intensity of the cheese.
• Roasted Vegetables: The wine's fruitiness would work well with the sweet, caramelized flavors of roasted vegetables. Try pairing it with a medley of roasted peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes topped on crostini.

With the Campogiovanni think rich, heavy, and meaty entrees. A prime rib prepared with a curry and cayenne-based rub mixed with garlic, coriander and cumin, would pair excellently. Conversely, you might also consider an herb roasted rack of lamb, prepared with a mix of honey, oregano, garlic, and basil. Seared beef steaks, shark steaks, spicy barbecue, and red sauces over pasta, are all potential pairings. Beyond that, here are my top six pairing categories:

• Grilled Steak or Lamb: The bold flavors and full body of this wine would beautifully complement the richness of grilled meats, such as herbed seared steak or grilled lamb chops.
• Wild Game: The Brunello's robust profile would pair wonderfully with game meats such as venison, wild boar, or duck. Fatty, rich meat that’s well seasoned is what this wine loves.
• Aged Cheese: Try pairing this wine alongside a cheese board featuring hard, sharp cheese such as Parmesan or Pecorino, preferably with cured meats, olives, and crostini.
• Mushroom Risotto: The earthy flavors of a mushroom risotto would harmonize beautifully with this particular wine.
• Pasta with Tomato-based Sauce: Whether it's a classic Bolognese, a spicy marinara, or a hearty tomato and meat sauce, Brunello is a delicious pairing.
• Osso Buco: A favorite of mine. An old-school Osso Buco would pair wonderfully with the depth and structure of this Brunello.

And that’s our review. If you’ve tried any of these wines, or have any questions or suggestions, be sure to let us know in the comments below. We always love hearing from you.

Cheers!