Long Island Summer Wines

This post has been sponsored by Suhru Wines & Lieb Cellars. The following message is intended for those 21+. All opinions expressed are my own. Please enjoy responsibly.

After ten years of writing about wine and winemaking, it’s safe to say that there’s very little that is genuinely “new” for me to explore. “New” for me now comes in drips and spurts, as opposed to the tidal wave of information I had to consume at the outset of all this. And so, I admit that I was in fact excited at the prospect of being offered the opportunity to review a pair of bottles of Teroldego, a relatively obscure and rare Italian variety of red wine. A grape that had until now escaped my scrutinizing palate.

With that in mind, today we’re reviewing a total of four wines from one of the USA’s most renowned wine regions – Long Island. The bottles come to us from Lieb Cellars and Suhru Wines, located in Cutchogue. We’ll be reviewing a pair of Teroldego wines, a varietal that’s rarely found outside of Italy’s Trentino region, but that has made a home for itself here on Long Island. We’ll also be taking a look at a Sparkling Pinot Blanc and a still Sauvignon Blanc.

As always, I will be talking about the region itself and what makes it tick – in this case Long Island, New York. After that, we’ll be reviewing the wines, and discussing the aromatics and palate, after which I’ll offer some pairing suggestions.

Now, without further introduction, let’s get to it.

The Where – Long Island, New York

When thinking about Long Island, what comes to mind is almost always the Hamptons, suburbia, or the urban buzz of Brooklyn and Queens. What exists between these three defining features of the Eastern Seaboard’s longest of islands is often a hazy blur. Yet, it is within that blur that one of the USA’s most successful wine regions happens to exist.

From a grape-growing and winemaking perspective, Long Island is an unlikely triumph – and that’s putting it mildly.

In contrast to Greek or Italian winemaking, both of which draw from traditions older than recorded history itself, winemaking on Long Island is barely four decades old. To start, most of Long Island’s vineyards are located along the island’s forks. By comparison to, let’s say Mendoza or Napa, this makes for exceptionally cramped geography, and there are no foothills or volcanism to take advantage of. In contrast to Italy, Long Island’s maritime climate features torrential rains that can rot away crops, and, on the other end of the spectrum, droughts that can starve away even the hardiest of vines.

The climatological maladies don’t end there. With Long Island’s maritime climate comes flooding (lots and lots of flooding), hurricanes, our infamous Nor Easters, harsh winters, and boiling summers. This is all in addition to exorbitant land prices. Taken together, Long Island seems like an area most winemakers would seek to avoid.

Yet, despite all of that, Long Island is considered by countless critics to be the home of some of the best wines in all of the Americas, with the Wine Industry Advisor commenting in a January 30th article of 2018 that “Long Island wines have earned their place among the top tier of American wines.”

Yet, all this leaves us with the question as to what accounts for the success of Long Island wines. The answer is almost painfully simple – dedicated winemakers, planting carefully selected vines on carefully selected plots, that are then meticulously cared for. In other words, Long Island wine is – at least in part – a testament to ingenuity and dedication.

Tasting and Aromatics – The Review

The 2020 Teroldego Lagrein introduces itself with leathery aromatics laced with notes of juicy red berries. There’s a hint of tilled soil and black plum deeper into the glass. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, with the red fruits from the aromatics carrying over. The wine ends with a clean and tannic finish.

The 2021 Sparkling Pinot Blanc greets with citrusy lemon and pineapple effervescence. Green apple manifests through the initial greeting, giving way to mingling notes of pear and dry toast or baked bread. These combine to create a pleasantly complex and layered bouquet. On the palate, the fruit notes are front and center. A very enjoyable sparkler from start to finish.

The Suhru 2022 Sauvignon Blanc opens with aromas of juicy pear and a light minerality, with just the faintest twist of lime. Deeper into the glass, there are notes of sliced red apple and melon. On the palate, there is something floral, perhaps mixed wildflowers or even cut grass, that I couldn’t detect in the bouquet. Regardless, the wine is medium-bodied with a rounded mouthfeel and a bright acidity. Very pleasant.

The Suhru 2021 Teroldego opens with notes of ripe red fruits and earthy aromatics, with just a hint of cracked leather or perhaps mocha lingering in the background. The wine is medium-bodied, with a palate of red fruits and mocha carrying over from the aromatics. Similar to the 2020 Teroldego reviewed above, the wine closes on a crisp and tannic finish. A very enjoyable wine.

What to Eat – The Pairing

With both of the Teroldego wines: A a rarer varietal, Teroldego typically features a full-to-medium body and moderate tannins, mixed with red fruit and earthy aromatics and flavors. This means that Teroldego typically pairs well with hearty, richly flavored foods, and that means red meat, such as roasted lamb, herb-roasted boar, or grilled steak. It also pairs well with braised pork or game meat. Teroldego also pairs well with heartier pasta dishes, especially those with thick tomato-based sauces, and spicy marinara.

With both of the Sauvignon Blanc wines, all of the classic Sauvignon Blanc pairings are in play. As to be expected, these wines are perfect pairings for grilled shrimp, oysters, and ceviche. Additionally, the wines would pair beautifully with leafy green salads, especially if topped with a creamy white dressing or crumbled goat cheese. Finally, the by-the-book pairing of grilled chicken and vegetable stir-fry would also be delicious.

And that’s our review. If you tried any of today’s wines, or have any questions or suggestions, be sure to let us know in the comments below. We always love hearing from you.

Cheers!